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Manman Dejeto
Balikbayans will never miss the Philippines again with these Pinoy treats
MANILA, Philippines – When Overseas Filipino Workers (OFWs) come home, the very first thing they look for is home-cooked food. Abroad, Pinoys miss dishes like piping hot sinigang, hearty kare-kare, or twice-cooked adobo – and don’t forget the copious amounts of steamy white rice.
In Makati, many balikbayans covet one address: Legaspi Village. After all, owning a condominium here means being walking distance away from most offices, prime malls, lush parks, and most importantly, the best lutong-bahay (homecooked) fare.
In and around this area, there are more than a handful of Filipino-themed restaurants proudly serving heirloom recipes or Filipino classics given a modern twist. Some of these establishments are now more than 30 years old and actually belong to Makati’s rich historical legacy. Some are also relatively new, choosing to go against the grain of trendier bars and “concept” cuisines that are also booming in the district.
Even if you’re not a balikbayan, a lutong-bahay food trip in Makati will easily satisfy your craving for the comforts of a no-frills meal. Here are our top picks* from 5 different restaurants. Most of these establishments are just a stone’s throw from the newest premium residential developments in the district. On your next visit, bring the entire clan with you!
*In alphabetical order
Beef Mechado from Fely J’s Kitchen (P399)
According to the head chef of Fely J’s Greenbelt 4 branch, almost every table orders a serving of this beef mechado. The slow-cooked beef easily comes away, even with just a spoon, and the rich tomato sauce is cooked twice to bring out its full flavor. It looks fancier than the mechado of our childhood days, but it’s just as heartwarming and memorable.
Bibingka from Via Mare (P160)
For Via Mare’s patrons, the warm, decadent bibingka serves up memories of cold Christmas nights, usually after attending Simbang Gabi (midnight mass). Filipino restaurants abroad have their own versions of this treat, but Via Mare’s purportedly remains unmatched, with its fragrant aroma and generous fillings of Laguna cheese and queso de bola (or salted duck egg), with a generous helping of dessicated coconut on the side.
Crispy Hito with Mustard Greens from Milky Way Café (P445)
Many balikbayans would remember Milky Way as a popular fast-food joint during the 1970’s. Today, Milky Way in Arnaiz Street serves a mix of previous Milky Way hits, as well as dishes that its owners grew up enjoying at home. Chef J. Gamboa says that their crispy hito recipe is the same as the one his mother always served at home; today, it’s one of the café’s most popular dishes among customers of all ages.
Halo-Halo from Milky Way Café (P162)
Milky Way’s Halo-Halo has been on countless “best of” lists, and for good reason: its composition remains unchanged since 1962, with no less than 20 ingredients topped with homemade ube ice cream and ice made and shaved right at the café. For most balikbayans, the Philippines’ hot summer afternoons become more tolerable, if only because they have an excuse to enjoy this cool, classic merienda.
Inasal Sisig from Sarsa (P355)
Sarsa’s sisig is unique because it’s made with Bacolod’s famous chicken inasal. According to Chef JP Anglo, this spicy dish is popular among the office crowd and small families who frequent his Rada street branch. While it’s famously paired with beer, Sarsa’s inasal sisig is also perfect for lunch and is a somewhat healthier-yet-just-as-yummy alternative to the traditional pulutan.
Oysters Rockefeller from Via Mare (P395)
There are few places inside a mall where you can enjoy fresh, quality seafood, and Via Mare’s is one such rarity. Their huge plate of oysters is a steal at less than 500 bucks, but its flavor and freshness are uncompromised. This is best enjoyed as an appetizer, but if you want to order a plate of rice to go with it (as some customers do) no one is stopping you.
Pork Bun from Rural Kitchen of Liliw, Laguna (P250)
Aside from Laguna specialties, Rural Kitchen’s Chef Justin also serves original recipes that he learned from his culinary training in New York. While this pork bun is strictly not a Filipino staple, it reminds many customers of their favorite siopao and their travels all at once.
Sizzling Kansi Bulalo from Sarsa (P380)
This sizzling bulalo comes with Sarsa’s unique Batwan gravy – it’s almost sour, which perfectly offsets the richness of this Filipino favorite. We love mixing in the excess gravy with our rice and eating the whole lot with a tall glass of cool, calamansi juice.
Suman na Palaspas with Tsokolate from Rural Kitchen of Liliw, Laguna (P195)
Rural Kitchen has very specific instructions on how to eat their suman with tsokolate: First, you cut up the suman with your spoon, then you pour the hot chocolate over it, and finally, you drizzle the whole lot with freshly-roasted pinipig. Growing up, this was how Rural Kitchen’s chef, Justin Sarabia, enjoyed this breakfast staple. Just like other bestsellers on this menu, Rural Kitchen’s delectable suman is made from his grandmother’s recipe, and all ingredients are sourced fresh every week from their hometown in Liliw, Laguna.
Temple Crab from Fely J’s (P185/100g)
Fely J’s Temple crabs are made from Chef Larry J. Cruz’s original recipe, which he inherited from his mom. These crabs are a crowd-pleaser – just look at that pile begging for a photo op. It looks as good as it tastes: at Fely J’s, crabs are always served huge and pre-cracked, so you don’t have to worry about begging for more or making a mess.
These restaurants thrive because of loyal customers, who don’t even look at the menu anymore whenever they get a table. “I noticed now that not a lot of people cook at home anymore,” Milky Way’s Chef J says. “[So] they come here for that. A lot of families now are smaller also, or the kids are away, or the parents both work so they don’t cook.” In Legazpi Village for example, many restaurants cater to the office crowd, but there are few home-cooked options for the people who actually live in the district. “There are many new residents [on this street], and then this is the CBD, so I think it has room for a Filipino restaurant,” Sarsa’s Chef JP says.
Makati is uniquely appealing to balikbayans. The city enables them to enjoy the convenience and cosmopolitan lifestyle that they have come to enjoy from abroad, but it also keeps them firmly grounded in the sights, sounds and tastes of home. In this bustling city, our kababayans can have the best of both worlds, and even more. – Rappler.com
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All photos by Manman Dejeto
WHERE TO FIND THESE RESTAURANTS:
Sarsa: 109 Rada Street, Legaspi Village
Rural Kitchen of Liliw: HRC Centre, 104 Rada Street,Legaspi Village
Via Mare: Ground floor, Greenbelt 1
Fely J’s Kitchen: Level 2, Greenbelt 5
Milky Way Café: 928 Pasay Road (A. Arnaiz Avenue)
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