Togean Islands: Not for tourists, just travelers

The beauty, they say, is in the journey – not the destination. But for anyone who has undertaken the equatorial odyssey of traveling to the Togeans, an archipelago of 56 islands and islets nestled inside the Gulf of Tomini in Indonesia’s Sulawesi, the journey and the destination are equally astounding.

The journey to the Togeans begins in Gorontalo, a 4-hour flight from Jakarta. After touching down in the sleepy seaside town, it’s off to the harbor, where anxious food vendors hawk nasi kuning (yellow rice) and soft drinks to ferry passengers ready to begin the 12-hour ferry ride to the Togeans.

The Togeans are blessed with a handful of beautiful small islands endowed with white sandy beaches and a number of once-in-a-lifetime experiences. For travelers who love spending their holidays on remote islands, surrounded by the sound of lapping waves, far from the hustle and bustle of the city, the pilgrimage to the Togeans is worth it. 

You’ll never hear of the Togeans referred to as a tourist destination. Most tourists, in fact, have never heard of the Togeans. Only a few brave backpackers and undaunted scuba divers make their way here, which only adds to the charm.

If you’re looking for a great way to pass the 12-hour ferry ride, inquire at the harbor about the captain’s quarters. For a fee passengers can rent out a room rather than endure the smoke and crowds of the economy class quarters. Cabins are equipped with two bunk beds and air conditioning, and serve as a surprisingly comfortable way to spend the night.

Before you know it, the next morning you are in Wakai, the tiny island town that serves as the “gateway” to Togean Islands.

From Wakai, most travelers and scuba divers make their way to Kadidiri, the most popular of the Togeans. If you already booked a resort on Kadidiri Island, their staff will pick you up in Wakai, and take you on another 20-minute journey by speedboat to Kadidiri.

The idyllic views spoil even the most seasoned travelers. Approaching Kadidiri, your eyes grow wide and your heart races at the dipping palm trees, lozenge blue water, and swaying hammocks. It’s a struggle not to jump immediately in the water and explore the corals, or dig your toes into the white powder sand.

Scuba diving heaven 

For scuba divers, there are dozens of dive sites just a short boat ride from your cabin on Kadidiri. Most of the dive sites are pretty calm, with little current, and great visibility – up to more than 40 meters! Gorgeous coral reefs and gigantic sponges are found throughout the Togeans. Some of the most famous dive sites include:

1. Apollo at Una-Una Island. For divers looking to mingle with giant schools of barracudas, class is in session at Apollo. Diving here, you will be most likely to see thousands of barracuda schooling in front of you. Apollo is on every Indonesian diver’s bucket list
2. Pinnacle at Una-Una Island. The underwater life in this dive site is superlatively rich. Once in the water you find yourself immediately surrounded by thousands of colorful reef fish, schooling jack fish, and priosmatic corals all around. Don’t forget to take a moment to enjoy the underwater life around you.
3. Little Lembeh. For underwater photographers, this spot is a must. Guides refer to the spot as “Little Lembeh” because it’s a muck dive macro heaven, similar to sites in the Lembeh Strait.
4. The B-24 Liberator Wreck. The WW II bomber, which crashed into the ocean on May 3, 1945, is in spellbindingly good condition. Divers are privy to an almost untouched 17m long by 22m wide plane wreck, with a right-wing propeller, mounted machine guns, the captain’s and co-pilot’s cockpit chairs and electrical equipment still intact. At a depth of 14-22 meters with 10-15 meters visibility, it will definitely give you a memorable experience. Don’t forget to check your dive computer regularly, because the time passes by fast when you’re exploring something this historical and interesting!

For non-scuba divers, the Togeans also feature plenty of snorkeling spots. You can rent a small wooden boat and go for an all-day island hopping adventure, where dolphins regularly make appearances. 

Stingless jellyfish!

More importantly, one of the Togeans most beautiful gifts is the chance to snorkel with stingless jellyfish! Thousands of stingless jellyfish reside in lake just 40 minutes away by boat from Kadadiri. From the shore, the walk to the lake is easy, but you will still need to wear sandals on the sharp rocky path.
 
There are only three lakes in the entire world with stingless jellyfish. And Togean Islands has one of them! Enjoy the magical feeling of swimming with thousands of jellyfish around you, without having to worry about getting stung!
 
After diving and snorkeling, you’ll likely be looking for some much-needed rest and relaxation. Make sure to spend a day exploring the islands, walking along the beaches and palm trees, enjoying the breeze and relaxing in a hammock with one of your favorite books.

Take a minute to think about the long journey to get to the Togeans — how far you are from blaring car horns and the rest of the world. The place is so quiet and peaceful. The sound of the waves will lull you to sleep every night. The wind will blow through your hair ever-so gently in the afternoon, while you enjoy a cold beer and watch as the beads of sweat glow golden in the swift equatorial sunset.

A traveler and scuba diver from Switzerland, Dusan Zenzak, says: “Togean Islands is the place to go if you want to forget about emails, internet and cell phone. These little jewels take a bit of an effort to get to, but will definitely reward you for getting there. A magical place, with amazing dive sites.”

Yes, he’s right. – Rappler.com

An Indonesian traveler, avid scuba-diver, and a travel blogger, Nila Tanzil has done solo travel to 28 countries in the world. She enjoys trying new experiences, understanding the local culture and getting to know the local people during her travels. She is also an education advocate with a mission to nurture children’s interest in reading through her initiative in Indonesia called Taman Bacaan Pelangi (Rainbow Reading Gardens), which builds children libraries in remote areas in Eastern Indonesia. Follow her on Twitter at @nilatanzil.