Go tell it to the mystic mountain

MANILA, Philippines – The handsome, almost flat-topped mountain dominates the Sulu Sea. 

Like a sleeping beauty disturbed by erratic volcanic eruptions, Bud Bongao woke up and emerged from the sea floor. Legend has it that the spirits of the jinns (creatures formed by Allah from a smokeless flame) reside in this holy mountain.

The Muslims believe that hiking to Bud Bongao’s peak will appease these entities and also bring them good health.

We walked past towering trees, muddy trails and 3 tampat (holy shrine) where Muslims worship. I could hear the eerie sound of the rustling of the leaves as the naughty long-tailed macaques played around the branches.

We fed them with bananas so they won’t bother us along the way.

I noticed a couple of knots of plastic tied to the trees. Since Bud Bongao is considered a sacred mountain, upon reaching the peak, people are encouraged to say a prayer, make a wish and tie knots as they go down the mountain to make sure their wishes come true.

Anyone who dares to remove the knots will have bad luck in their lifetime.

After about an hour, we reached the top. Like any other climb, it was self-rewarding to finally stand that high. I soaked up the view of the entire peninsula with the endless sea lapping around the island.

Rising on the edge of the shore is a community of stilt houses. This is where the once sea gypsy tribes of Sama and Bajau thrived; (they were) the original inhabitants of Tawi-Tawi.

Climbing the peak of Bud Bongao is on the bucket list of every tourist visiting this province. They say if you have not reached its peak, you have not been to Tawi-Tawi. (Bud Bongao is a mountain in the town of Bongao, Tawi-Tawi.)

“Why are you people from Manila so scared of Mindanao?” one of the police escorts asked us while we were sitting at the peak and enjoying the view.

“Maybe because of the reported kidnappings and bombings,” I replied.

“Every day there are people who die or become victims of robbery; kidnapping and car-napping occur everywhere,” said the police escort.

“I am from Luzon but I love it here in Mindanao. Tourism here is suffering because of the wrong perceptions of people.”

Tawi-Tawi is a province located at the southernmost part of the Philippines, but its name is tainted with the negative publicity brought about by kidnappings committed by certain groups, by bombings and wars in its neighboring provinces.

I used to be one of those tourists who were scared to venture farther down south of our country, but I was ecstatic to conquer that fear.

My visit to Jolo, Sulu and boarding an overloaded ferry to Tawi-Tawi with no escorts and no local contacts have changed the way I look at these provinces. 

Tawi-Tawi is actually a place where people of different tribes and religions live in harmony with each other.

“Let’s go, it’s getting dark,” the group said.

As soon as I got up, I received an SMS: “Ate, are we pushing through tomorrow?”

It was a young tricycle driver. I met him earlier that day when I was denied entry to two of the beach resorts because it so happened that Nora Aunor was there, filming an indie movie.

The Department of Tourism in Bongao could not assist us because, like everyone else, they are “busy” and crazy about the Superstar.

The boy was so ecstatic to tour me around Bongao. “It would be embarrassing if no one entertains a visitor like you here in our town,” he said.

A part of me wanted to trust the kid, to prove to myself that it was safe to tour around Bongao with a stranger and no police escort.

But I also wanted to join my friend and some military escorts to visit a virgin island not often seen by tourists.

I took a deep breath and whispered my prayers to the sky. I reached for my phone.

“Pick me up at 9am.” Message sent.

I instantly felt that another adventure was coming.

How to get to Bongao, Tawi-Tawi:

1. Cebu Pacific and Airphil Express fly directly to Bongao, Tawi-Tawi. From the airport, you can hire a tricycle for Php100 to take you to the town center.

2. For budget accommodation, head to Passengers Place or Becky’s Pension.

3. Rent a tricycle to tour you around town and to take you to Bud Bongao. You may contact my young tricycle driver friend Al-Adzhar Andung at his cellphone number: 09108532196.

4. Tawi-Tawi is generally safe, just avoid the outskirts.

5. You may also contact Ms. Salve Pescadera of the Tourism Office at +63 (939)-837-3221 for assistance. – Rappler.com

(Gael Hilotin is a female solo traveler who is currently traveling non-stop around the Philippines. Follow her adventures at http://thepinaysolobackpacker.com.)

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