The tidal waves of Tanauan, Leyte

The town of Tanauan, Leyte made news around the world after being hit by a Typhoon Yolanda (Haiyan) on November 8, 2013. While Tacloban is considered a highly urbanized city, Tanauan is a laid back thriving coastal community. It is an old colonial town founded in 1710 that suffered the second most number of fatalities and devastation by the super typhoon.

Before dawn of November 8, 2013, Yolanda’s wrath mercilessly lambasted Tanauan. The gray daylight appeared, and all that could be seen were smoke, mist and flying debris. The winds were soon followed by raging waves from the sea engulfing the coastal villages, even reaching right to the center of town. After the storm and waters were gone, the survivors instinctively gathered in the ruined town hall only to be stunned by what they experienced. Their beloved town was in ruins.

The wounded made their way to the town hall hoping to be treated with what was left of the first aid and medical supplies. Whoever was abled and skilled to treat people took the initiative to do so. As the number of dead bodies piled up, people looked for food, water and a way out of Tanauan. The once scenic and laid back town that was the skimboarding capital of the Philippines became a living horror. Nothing but misery lingered throughout the town. (READ: Tanauan: Cry for food, aid)

The first few days after the storm were a struggle for survival. The people of Tanauan panicked when someone cried another giant wave was coming. The rumors that circulated during the first few days after the storm sparked more fear as people thought they were experiencing the end of the world. To make things worse, every night, wailing sounds were heard coming from the coast to the nearby river where most of the dead bodies ended up.

Beacon of hope

It was not easy living for a few days with dead bodies nearby, especially when the stench became fouler as the number of cadavers increased day after day. Amidst the uncertainty and isolation, the people killed time by staying positive and uplifting one another as help was on its way. Crying was not an option as it only made them thirsty.

Not a single roof in the houses and in the buildings remained intact except for the place of worship – the Assumption of Our Lady Church. The old structure humbly stood with minimal damage. It soon became the evacuation center of the homeless survivors from the coastal villages. It also caught the attention of the faithful as it became their beacon of hope. The historical marker on the church’s façade reminded them of something.

It reads: “Church Of Tanauan, Leyte constructed by the Jesuit Missionaries, 1704, and turned over to the Augustinians, 1768-1843. Repaired and enlarged, 1850-1860, by Fr. Francisco De Paula Marquez who added a transept and surrounded the premises with thick rock wall, having a watch tower on each four corners for defense against pirates. Withstood hurricane and tidal wave of 1897.” Philippine Historical Committee 1949.

Lessons from the past

Tidal Wave! Of course! It was a tidal wave that struck the town before. The people recalled the stories passed down to them by the older generations regarding the town’s mysteries and tragedies. It is well known among the elders of Tanauan that a mighty storm hit the town in 1897. The waters from the sea surged towards the town and drowned a lot of people. The waves were described as gigantic and were called “tidal waves.” (READ: Flashback: 1897, Leyte and a strong typhoon)

It apparently killed a massive number of people and left the town in ruins except for the church. According to some accounts, the few who survived the cataclysmic event witnessed a miracle. They saw from a distance, a lady walking in the sea, her arms outstretched, holding back the waves to prevent it from bringing more devastation. As the storm subsided, she vanished and a few were spared.

But the tidal waves were no legend. It was history, and history repeated itself on that very day.

The old church of Tanauan withstood the storm of 1897, and it once again withstood Yolanda (Haiyan) in 2013, 116 years later. Some townspeople say that, perhaps, the church is miraculous, to be able to withstand the worse forces of nature – wind, water and earthquakes for over three centuries and fire from its burning convent a few weeks after Yolanda.

The people of Tanauan know that they are continuously being protected by the Blessed Mother despite what happened to them. They say that the town suffers from a catastrophic event to teach the people a lesson. When history and its lessons have been almost forgotten, and materialism is valued over morals and spirituality, they are reminded of the basic essentials of living – contentment and perhaps, a call to be closer to God.

A chance to rebuild

More than three months after Yolanda, although there are still a lot of people missing, and families grieving, the amount of help that has poured into the town is enormous. From food, cash donations, cash for work programs, to rebuilding schools and livelihood distributions, the people are thankful for all the help that they’re continuously receiving. They are, however, anxious if they will ever go back to their normal lives.

The locals know that Tanauan is making a name for itself now. Countless non-governmental organizations, private groups, local and foreign governments, beauty queens and high profile sports stars have come to see the old town. It uplifts the people’s spirits and brings a wave of temporary happiness. It brings people excitement as to whoever is coming to see the town next.

The local leaders understand this and know that this is a chance to rebuild the town better. There is a blessing to Yolanda’s curse after all. (READ: Tanauan village head: ‘Kaya pa namin ito’)

The devastation in Tanauan, Leyte was really out of the ordinary. Tragedy is an understatement. It was apocalyptic. An entire town almost washed out by the sea that it once considered a friend. Whether it was caused by climate change, a cycle in nature or a repeat in history, it brought lessons to be learned that should be remembered and considered through the next hundred years.

As the people of Tanauan try to forget the miseries of the storm, they positively look forward to the future where they can celebrate, offer their savory lechon (the best in the Metro tacloabn area), show guests their stations of the cross, party in the local Pasaka festival, or simply hang out with the people and laugh over a drink of beer or Tuba again. The local people of Tanauan look forward to the day where their smiles are whole again, and their hearts healed.

People hope that the town would be more prepared for disasters to come, perhaps, have a warning system in case a calamity of the same magnitude happens again – sturdier structures for evacuations and temporary shelters, stronger homes and a fully operational hospital. The people hope for industries to come and develop the fishing, agriculture, and pottery sectors. They look forward to the day that Tanauan can sustain itself again.

But for now, a lot of work needs to be done in rebuilding Tanauan and its people’s lives. Being the skimboarding capital that they are, Tanauan and its people will continue to ride the many tidal waves of life, come what may. – Rappler.com

Paul Cinco is a travel photographer from Tanauan, Leyte. He earned his degree in International Studies, Tourism Management from San Beda College Alabang. He is a victim and survivor of Super Typhoon Yolanda.