Makati City

Party place no more: Makati’s Poblacion is all grown up

Amanda T. Lago

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Party place no more: Makati’s Poblacion is all grown up

Amanda Lago/Rappler

Once a place to dance all night, this ever-evolving neighborhood now quietly thrives with sari-sari stores, brunch spots, and coffee stops

In the stark light of day, Don Pedro – once the busy party street of Poblacion in Makati – is still and quiet. 

One establishment, a lively reggae bar, looks like it’s now being torn apart piece by piece. Others have closure orders plastered on their doors. On the same street, a building has a hand-written sign on their gate, telling people to keep their distance as a safety protocol against COVID-19.

Amanda Lago/Rappler
Amanda Lago/Rappler

Poblacion is the place Makati’s first settlers chose to call home. It’s where you can find the city’s oldest church, and many of its oldest and most devout Catholic families. Oddly enough, it also houses a notorious red light district along Burgos street, around the corner from an Iglesia ni Cristo.

In the most recent chapter of its history, Poblacion became “hip,” “trendy” – first a place where backpackers could find cheap beer and good food at a dive bar, and later on, a nightspot for yuppies tired of BGC’s door charges and dress codes, a place where they could dance all night in tsinelas and shorts, where bartenders remembered their names, where they could talk to street food vendors about life at 1 in the morning.

Amanda Lago/Rappler
Amanda Lago/Rappler

At the height of its popularity, Poblacion would be packed with crowds even on weeknights, as new concepts opened to fulfill the demands of a crowd constantly seeking new thrills. To the annoyance of some residents, the neighborhood took every opportunity to celebrate – Halloween, Independence Day, even foreign holidays like St. Patrick’s Day and Cinco de Mayo. 

Amanda Lago/Rappler

All of this came to a grinding halt when the pandemic hit and establishments were shut down – no more boozed-up partygoers flitting from door to door all night long, no more music blasting from rooftop bars. Silence filled the streets – a welcome respite for the residents that still live there.

But the neighborhood – recently named one of the coolest in the world – has more life in it yet.

Amanda Lago/Rappler

Several sari-sari stores seem to have a steady stream of customers – most likely residents, some staying for a chat. 

Around the corner from Don Pedro on Alfonso Street, a small window that used to serve mango rum and gin buko now advertises fresh fruits and vegetables.

Amanda Lago/Rappler
Amanda Lago/Rappler

On another street, P. Guanzon, a takeout joint offering cuisines from all over the world has taken over the space that used to be a bar-cum-art gallery that served designer cocktails. 

On tree-lined Enriquez Street, a new cafe has opened next to a quaint bed-and-breakfast that has been in the neighborhood for years. Cafe Fleur, owned by renowned chef Sau del Rosario, has breezy interiors and plant-filled corners – the textbook brunch spot, with a menu to match.

Amanda Lago/Rappler

At first glance, it’s a little too shiny for gritty Poblacion, but its quirky menu items (with dishes named Vuco Fye and Vananah Tsokolate Cake) is a nice concession to the offbeat charm that has made the neighborhood so popular.

The cafe opened in January 2021, one of the few new establishments that have miraculously opened in what might be the worst possible time for any restuarant to open.

A few blocks away on Fermina Street is Coffee ARTea, which occupies a tiny space just a few steps from craft cocktail bar Agimat. 

Its owner, Hanzel Babas, fell in love with Poblacion even before the pandemic, and since then she’s dreamt of opening her own coffee shop there. The pandemic hit, but her resolve didn’t waver.

Amanda Lago/Rappler

“I don’t know if you have experienced this kind of gut feeling, you know, like when you see something and you think that it’s going to be a good one,” she told Rappler in a phone interview. “May instinct eh, may instinct na this is a perfect spot (There’s this instinct, an instinct that this is a perfect spot).”

As luck would have it, a space opened up – just big enough for a business owner on a tight pandemic budget. Their menu is simple and pretty straightforward – just a few token items made well.

Amanda Lago/Rappler

The shop itself is compact but breezy, with a small outdoor bar perfect for the coffee shop’s clientele – mostly cyclists and passers-by.

Parang naging go-to place pa rin nila to when it comes to riding their bikes. ‘Yung mga siklista, pag nagbibike sila, dinadaanan talaga nila itong Poblacion (It’s become their go-to place when they ride their bikes. When they bike, they really pass by Poblacion,” she said.

Parang sinasabi nila na it feels like home daw, umiinom lang daw ng coffee sa bahay (they say it feels like home, just like they’re drinking coffee at home),” she added.

In this neighborhood that has seen the most drastic changes throughout its long history, it’s the feeling of home that perhaps has remained constant – and what continues to draw people to it, even in the driest of seasons. 

“Iba talaga yung feeliing sa Poblacion, ibang iba talaga (The vibe is different in Poblacion, it’s really, really different),” Hanzel said, sharing that prior to opening her business, she considered and explored other neighborhoods. 

She ended up, of course, in the place she had been drawn to from the start – “a neighborhood where you’re going out but it still feels like you’re home.” – Rappler.com

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Amanda T. Lago

After avoiding long-term jobs in favor of travelling the world, Amanda finally learned to commit when she joined Rappler in July 2017. As a lifestyle and entertainment reporter, she writes about music, culture, and the occasional showbiz drama. She also hosts Rappler Live Jam, where she sometimes tries her best not to fan-girl on camera.